October jobs on your allotment

Maintaining soil and structures and planning ahead

Continue to clear the ground of this summer’s growth, weeding as you go.
Turn the compost heap to speed its decomposition.
Compost fallen leaves in hessian bags. Compost pea and bean foliage,but leave the roots in the ground as they contain nitrogen.
Plan where you will grow brassicas next year. Manure the area now and lime in the spring if the ph level is below 7.
To maximise light levels and reduce harbouring of bugs, clean the green house with eco-friendly detergent. Garden disinfectant such as Jeyes Fluid can be used in a greenhouse or a sulphur candle if resident bugs are suspected.
Make a last cut on grass paths and reinstate beds where grass has encroached.
Apply grease bands around the trunks of fruit trees as a barrier to winter moths.
Order bare-rooted fruit trees to be delivered November onwards. (See guidance on website and contact Site Secretary)
Check that the bird netting on brassicas is secure in preparation for more wintry weather.
Collect seeds of plants that have not been harvested. Peas and beans save well. Collect directly from the plant on a dry day to avoid fungal rot and put straight into paper bags.

Sowing and planting

Winter salads and oriental greens can be sown in the green house or cold frame.
Sow over-wintering broad beans either directly or start under cover in pots or root-trainers.
Sow green manures such as rye, vetches or ryegrass to be dug in next February.
Plant overwintering onion sets and garlic. Soil must be well drained. Onion sets should just peep above the surface. If the ph is lower than 7 add a little calicified seaweed. Plant garlic planted 1.5- 2”deep, spaced 7” apart. Both benefit from onion fertilizer.
Plant daffodils, alliums and other spring bulbs for early spring flowering. (Hold off planting tulips till November.)
Sow sweet peas in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse for early summer flowering and showing. Sow in root trainers or 3” pots.
Plant out spring cabbage 6” apart.
Take hardwood cuttings, 1ft long, from gooseberries and currants. Plant in pots of compost.

Harvesting

Harvest winter squashes. Cut the squash carefully leaving a 2-3” stem. ‘Cure’ in a warm, dry place for 10-14 days, then in a cool, light place at around 50-55F until ready to eat. Many squash can be stored for up to 6 months.
Store disease-free apples, pears and potatoes in a cool, dry place.
Ensure carrots are protected with insect mesh as carrot flies are most damaging in late summer and autumn. Leave in the ground to harvest as needed.
Harvest maincrop potatoes. Check each tuber for disease or damage and do not store damaged tubers. Store in a cool, dry place. Let the tubers dry off before storing in jute, hessian or paper bags in a dark frost-free place.

Pruning

Lift and divide rhubarb plants that have been in situ for more than 5 years or are less productive. Keep and replant the newer outside growth and discard the centre.
Cut down asparagus stems as they turn yellow and mulch with well-rotted manure.
Clear away strawberry foliage to prevent build-up of pests and diseases.

Gardening for wildlife