Maintaining soil and structures and planning ahead
As crops are harvested clear debris and cover cleared soil with weed suppressant.
Plan a crop system for vegetables- leaving a minimum of two years before replanting crops in the same place.
Complete winter digging of bare beds and cover the ground to warm beds for early crops.
Open greenhouse vents on mild days
Clean greenhouses, staging, pots and seed-trays for the coming growing season.
Sowing and growing
Apply winter washes to fruit trees to control overwintering pests.
Start ‘chitting’ tubers of early potatoes in trays in a cool, light, frost-free location.
Sow broad beans in pots under cover.
Sow winter salads in a greenhouse or windowsill.
Sow summer brassicas and spinach on a windowsill to plant out in late February.
Aubergines can be sown under cover on a sunny windowsill from late January.
Bring potted runners of strawberries under glass for forcing.
Sow later sweet peas now and pot on autumn-sown sweet peas, pinching out the tip after 4 pairs of leaves have developed or when plants have reached 3.5 cms. Place on a sunny windowsill, in a cold frame or greenhouse.
Ensure brassicas are protected against pigeons by netting.
Begin forcing rhubarb for an early crop by placing a bucket or forcing jar over the crop.
Harvesting
Harvest parsnip, swede, sprouting broccoli, Brussels sprouts, leek and turnip.
Pruning
Prune overgrown blackcurrant bushes- remove a third of the old, weak or unproductive stems to ground level to encourage new basal shoots.
Prune freestanding apples and pears, maintaining an open centre. Do not remove more than 20% of the crown in one winter
Prune gooseberries, redcurrants and whitecurrants by removing dead wood and low lying shoots. Prune last year’s growth of the main stems by about a half. Prune all side-shoots back to one to three buds from their bases.
Prune grapevines before mid January.
Gardening for wildlife
Regularly replenish bird feeders.
Clear out bird boxes by removing old nests and rinse out boxes.
Hoe off weeds on bare soil,
water well then cover with mulches to prevent moisture-loss. For
instance, pile grass clippings onto layers of newspaper.
Do not leave soil bare for any
length of time. Green manures, Crimson Clover, White clover,
Phacelia, Summer Quick Fix can all be sown now.
Add material to compost heaps,
mix greens (nitrogen rich) with browns (carbon rich) at 50/50 ratio.
Water heaps if dry and turn to speed up decomposition.
Sowing and Growing
In early July continue to
sow beetroot, chard, perennial spinach, kohl rabi and turnips for
autumn harvesting.
Sow dwarf French beans.
Sow kale for early spring
harvesting and rocket for autumn harvesting.
Sow basil under cover until the
middle of the month.
Sow beetroots Choggia or
Burpees Golden for autumn eating.
Plant specially prepared potato
tubers for Christmas crop.
Finish planting out leeks.
Remove the main shoot on cordon
tomatoes where they hit the greenhouse roof, or a leaf or two above
the seventh flower truss and continue feeding once a week.
Water soft fruit and fruit
trees during dry spells to encourage good fruit development.
Water courgettes consistently
so they continue to flower and crop.
Mulch brassicas after rain with
composted stable manure to lock in moisture and nutrients and lessen
the effect of club root.
At end of month chop back
perennial herbs such as chives, sorrel, marjoram to encourage
fresher leaves within a few weeks. If left to flower they may lose
flavour.
Pinch out climbing beans once
they reach the top of supports.
Prune cherries and plums after
fruiting. Remove weak, damaged and crossing branches.
Thin overcrowded apples, pears
and plums to get larger and better quality fruit.
Harvesting
Pick black, red and white currants and summer-fruiting raspberries.
Courgettes, spinach, cucumbers, beetroot , French beans, salad crops and greenhouse tomatoes can be harvested.
Continue digging second early potatoes.
Once harvesting of summer fruited raspberries is finished, cut old fruited canes to ground level and tie in new, healthy canes to supports.
After harvesting, summer-prune red and white currants and gooseberries. Trim back all gooseberry side shoots to 3 or 4 buds from their point of growth and cut out shoots that cross into the middle of the bush.
Gardening for Wildlife
Thin out vigorous
oxygenating plants in ponds, leaving them on the side to allow
pondlife to crawl back into water. Keep around 30% of the surface
free of weed.
Continue to hand-weed or hoe
regularly to keep on top of weeds.
Dig deep to remove highly
invasive bind weed as it appears.
Continue to mow or clip grass
paths weekly.
If you have sown green manure,
dig it in this month to fix the nitrogen in the soil.
In the greenhouse ensure
adequate shading. Check night time temperatures and close door on
cold nights. On hot days keep greenhouse temperatures down by using
maximum ventilation and damp down greenhouse floors to increase
humidity.
Use insect-proof mesh over
carrots to prevent carrot fly attacking carrots. Ensure it is
well-pegged down, not leaving any gaps.
Use insect-proof mesh over
leeks to prevent leek moth damaging leeks. Ensure it is well-pegged
down, not leaving any gaps.
Sowing and Growing
Direct-sow courgettes.
Sow radicchio in drills for
autumn salad leaves.
Sow fennel and oriental greens
such as mizuna and pak choi. June sowings reduce the risk of
bolting.
Successionally sow salads,
rocket and basil etc every two to three weeks for continuous
picking.
Make a late sowing of peas for
an autumn crop.
Sow overwintering carrots such
as Autumn King or Chantenay.
Quick-maturing radishes or
salad leaf crops can be sown between brassica rows.
Quick-germinating annuals, such
as cosmos, that attract insect pollinators can still be sown.
Sow
wallflowers for next year.
Water potatoes well for
good-sized tubers and reduced problems with scab. (Remember to
target-water, not spray, to avoid water wastage.)
Water tomatoes regularly and
evenly. Uneven watering can cause cracked fruit and blossom end rot.
Regularly pinch outside shoots on cordon tomatoes and tie in plants
to supports.
Feed every 10-14 days with a liquid fertilizer,
changing to a high potash fertilizer once the first fruits begin to
set.
Plant out sweet corn 16”
apart in blocks, not rows, to aid wind pollination.
Continue planting out or
direct-sow runner and French beans.
Transplant pencil-thick leeks
now into 6” deep holes.
Plant out pumpkins, squashes in
well manured ground. Plant out outdoor cucumbers and peppers.
Protect with fleece on cold nights.
Keep fruit bushes well-watered.
(Target-water, not spray, to avoid water wastage.) Protect soft
fruit from bird attack by netting securely and tie in new raspberry
and blackberry canes.
Continue to check for sawfly
larvae on gooseberries. Hand pick off.
Remove strawberry runners
during the early part of summer, to avoid energy being diverted from
the developing fruit.
On plum trees, after the ‘June
drop’ of excess developing fruits, thin the fruits to prevent
overladen branches breaking.
Harvesting
Continue to regularly harvest established asparagus – mid April to mid June. If asparagus growth is weak, apply a general fertilizer of fish, blood and bone.
First, second and salad potatoes may be ready for harvesting. Tubers should be ready when plants begin to flower.
Harvest broad beans from the bottom of the plant up. Once the plant is harvested, cut off the stems and dig the roots back into the soil to make use of the captured nitrogen.
Harvest early peas. Put unused pea pods and foliage into the compost heap or dig into the soil to provide nitrogen rich nutrients to the soil.
Gardening for Wildlife
If broad beans are affected
by blackfly, rub off or spray with a jet of water to remove them
rather than using insecticides.
Create a cool, damp spot for
amphibians and their prey to take shelter in by building a log pile
in a shady corner. Half bury the bottom logs and fill nooks and
crannies with leaves.
Add a bee house to your plot or
garden, placing it in a south-facing spot but not in direct
sunlight.
Select single forms of annual
flowers as these provide more pollen for bees. Integrate annual
flowers into the vegetable beds to attract beneficial insects such
as bees and hoverflies.
Reduce the use of herbicides,
fungicides and insecticides if possible.